After breakfast at Tingri on 29 Aug, we departed for Gar, one of the few decent towns in Western Tibet. But we didn’t get there until 1 Sep, having spent two nights at two different truckers’ halt on the way. The going was getting tougher and tempers were beginning to fray. Fortunately there were no fist fights or anything like that; our experienced Convoy Sweeper (callsign Grandpa) made sure of that. Gar or Ngari is about 1,100 km away from Tingri and about half way to Kashgar. Vegetation is semi arid and road junctions hardly marked. Fortunately our Chinese guide that we picked up in Lhasa took us along the right road well marked by heavy truck tyres. In fact when we got to Gar in late afternoon, we were pleased to see Yakuza (and his car on a truck) welcoming us.
From Gar we continued NW through very sparsely populated region. We hardly met anyone, not even shepherds except for the occasional trucks. From the map we were to drive along the shores of Bagong Co or Pangong Tso lake. [Pangong Tso, Tibetan for “long, narrow, enchanted lake”, is an endorheic lake in the Himalayas situated at a height of about 4,350 m. It is 134 km long and extends from India to Tibet. Endorheic lakes are bodies of water that do not flow into the sea. 60% of the lake lies in Tibet. Wikipedia.] And apparently the water on the Indian side is salty while the Tibetan side is fresh.
After enjoying the view of the lake and having had lots of photo shoots we proceeded onward to find a camp site. We were to camp because the distance to the next town/village/truckers’ halt was just too far. But we couldn’t find any; and the guides were quite hopeless. Fortunately Convoy Leader Y2K had his wits about him and decided that we couldn’t continue wandering. So he decided to turn back because he sort of saw a possible camp site some way back. Well, it was a farm house (apparently abandoned) with a fairly big walled compound. It was getting dark and nobody argued about not wanting to camp there. We pitched our tents and boiled some dinner of maggi mee; what else! No camp fire or anything; everybody was just too tired to chit-chat. I was soon asleep in spite of the howling wind and freezing temperatures; we were at over 4,200 m (>14,000 ft.)
The next morning, to our horror we realised that were sleeping in a sheep pen. There were lots of evidence to show; but fortunately they were all hardened stuff and our clothing and equipment didn’t get soiled. But it was enough to put me off to skip breakfast.
It was 2 Sep 2005. Two more stops before Kashgar, we were told. Only about 1,000 km. How exciting. We have been roughing it out since Lhasa for 10 days now. We need decent food, hot bath and proper toilet. But it was not to be, for at the next truckers’ halt we were held back two days. There were some Army exercises going on and the mountain pass was blocked. You could get through if you were a cyclist, as this crazy solo cyclist Dutch fellow told us about it. He was on his way to Pakistan via the Karakorum highway. He looked half-starved so we shared our food with him. With this embargo, this little town became quite crowded with truckers in particular. They looked quite a rough lot. In fact we were looking like them too.
We got down from the mountains around lunch time. What a relief (literally, since I was holding back going to the you-know-what since two days ago.) We were supposed to rest at the next town, Yecheng, but since we had lost one day, it was decided to press on to Kashgar arriving there after 8:00 pm (Beijing time.) It was 6:00 pm Kashgar time.